Leaving Zambia - July 3 and 4

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Each day we begin our day with the staff of Christian Alliance for Children in Zambia (CACZ).  We always sing songs of praise – “He has Made Me Glad” has a catchy tune that you can’t get out of your head – a great song to sing every day!!

I will enter his gates with
thanksgiving in my heart
I will enter his courts with praise
I will say this is the day that the
Lord has made
I will rejoice for he has made me glad
He has made me glad
He has made me glad
I will rejoice for he has made me glad!!!

Thomas Hughes led the devotion by reading Psalm 100 and thanking all you made our visit so heartwarming.

We spent the rest of the morning saying goodbye to the staff, babies, and our fellow travelers.  I was ready to see Steve and get back home but it was hard to leave knowing that I may never see these wonderful folks again.

Off to the airport to get hugs from Kevin VanRavenstein. Kevin was our chaperon and guide.  It’s a two hour flight from Lusaka to Johannesburg which included lunch.  As we were leaving we could see Air Force 2 or 3 on the runway – Jill Biden was in Lusaka “highlighting the importance of girls’ education and women’s participation in government, the economy and civil society”.  Good for her!!  I have noticed that there are many more boys than girls in the school classrooms we visited.

Our layover in Joburg was 4 hours which gave us plenty of time to buy last minute souvenirs at the “Out of Africa” Shop.  Overseas air flight is “hurry up and wait” to go through customs, security and another security finally boarding the plane.  The flight time from JNB to LHR is 11 hours and 20 minutes.  I don’t even think about the time – I just get on get settled and start playing with all those mindless devices they have - TV, Movies, Games… a little bit of sleep and pretty soon they are bringing breakfast.  So what if my legs are numb they’ll wake up soon J.

We have a 10 hour layover in London on July 4^th!!  We decide to spend US $$ in the UK to celebrate our independence.  I shared this with the customs officer and he thought it was a great idea – Cheerio!!  So off we (Debby, Meghan, Helen and their cousin Jake) go onto the tube into central London arriving at Piccadilly Circus station at 7:30am.  Our only plan was to get back on the tube no later than 12:00pm to make our flight back home!!  So we WALKED Leicester Square and the theater district, Covent Garden Market just opening, into Somerset House and down to the Thames past Cleopatra’s Needle, Big Ben, and then trying to get into Westminster Abbey – lines too long L.  It was a beautifully sunny day for a walk and sight-seeing.

Back on the tube at Westminster Station changing to the Piccadilly Line and each finding seats as the train got more crowded with people and their bags.  Arrived Heathrow at 1PM – yay!!! 

We were all very excited to learn that our group had been upgraded to World Traveler PLUS – which meant larger seats, and a foot rest – lovely!!  So back into airplane mode playing games and watching movies and TV shows.  The flight was a mere 8 hours and 40 minutes even though the pilot had to dodge Hurricane Arthur.  We were picked up by Lisa and Connor Hughes – Lisa had just run the Peachtree Road Race – way to go LISA!!  Driving to Dunwoody we were welcomed by fireworks!!  Wonderful hot showers were taken and a good night’s sleep was enjoyed by all.  We all enjoyed breakfast at the Old Hickory House – Yum grits and biscuits.  Easy drive to Greenville where I was dropped off and then on to Asheville for Debby, Meghan and Helen.

Wonderful memories and experiences BUT THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE HOME.

National Museum of Zambia

     This morning, we went to the National Museum in Lusaka.  Having a group of 20, they requested a professor to take us on a tour of the museum.  He was spritely and carried a long stick with a cut-out pointing hand so that he could point to specific things behind the yellow cords.
     There was an entire area of the upper floor dedicated to the prehistory of mankind.  They had several skull replicas from those found all across Africa.  The Australopithecus to the Homo Sapiens, all of the evolutionary evidence was found in Africa - one of the final stages found in Kabwe, Zambia.
    I found the information about the tribal migrations and how they were influenced by colonialism fascinating.  I love drawing parallels with the history of the Americas and Africa.  Only, North America was
lucky enough to slough off Colonial rule by 1800 and the South American and African continents were unable to emerge completely independent until sometime in the 1900s.

     The last exhibit we were taken to was a paper mâché bus with several "people" aboard, some dressed in red and others in other colors. The bus was constructed in 1980 to represent the HIV virus in Zambia, which affects 1 in 4 adults here. There was a "story" that went along with the bus had something about the bus driver being HIV positive and married but with 2 girlfriends. The guy on the second row is one of his girlfriends boyfriend - who is now one of the bus drivers sexual "relatives" even though they have never met.  Apparently this was a common occurrence in Zambia culture and was his the virus spread so rampantly before education.  The statistics on HIV now are somewhere between 12-17% (depending on where you go for the info).

     We returned home to a lunch of grilled cheese sandwiches (yum) and waited for our 5th graders to arrive for craft time.  When their bus arrived, there were just 14 of them.  We were able to really give
hands on attention to them and learn a few of their names, which was fantastic.
     After crafts, we took them outside and played Ultimate Duck Duck Goose.  Only a few of them had played this game in the past, but they caught on quickly and even the teachers played with us.  By the end of the game, we were winded and happy, giggling with the kids.
     During the later afternoon, Matilda and Precious came to talk to us about the children that are housed at House of Moses and what their homelife and families are like.  And about the Milk and Medicine program run by CACZ (Christian Alliance for Children in Zambia).  It was a tough afternoon, learning that these children had been "dumped" (their word for abandoned) or that their moms were either mentally ill or dead with no family able to take in their children.
     I know it is almost ridiculous to be surprised to hear these stories when all these babies live here, but hearing that the sweet sweet baby that I have totally fallen in love with upstairs mom's dead... well, it just breaks my heart all over again that this beautiful happy baby is alone in the world.
     The mission of CACZ provides the space for these babies and toddlers have a loving and caring environment and provides food and vitamins (for children ages infant to 5) 100+ families a month to
guarantee those babies grow up strong.
     It has been a tough day on my heart and I'm certain its not the last.  My  blessings are endless and I am so grateful to have brought my children here.

Sunday

Today is a beautiful Sunday morning.  We all rise at different times to shower and yes it all works out.  The smell of French toast greeted us as well as songs of joy sung by Mary and Christine. 

Sitting around the table we discuss impressions of our day and the sweet children we have held.

We attend Chelstone Presbyterian Church,  about 2 miles from the House of Moses.  When we arrived at 10:00 the prayer and praise service was in full swing. "I'm praying, I'm singing about the joy of the Lord."  "Fill my cup with your love."  "I was lost but am found."  are some of the praise songs sung by the youth of the church.  The congregation participated by singing along, praying aloud and clapping.

The scripture was read: 

2 Kings 2:1-14 Elijah ascends to heaven.  The pastor stressed Elisha's wish to inherit a double share of Elijah's spirit. 

New Testament: 1 Corinthians 11:1 

Be imitators of me as I am of Christ.

I felt the spirit of Christ among these faithful Christians.  I was challenged to follow Christ's leading as we minister one to another.  As the song reminded me,  "There's a sweet, sweet spirit in this place and I know it is the spirit of the Lord."

After worship we headed to a mall to choose a eating spot - most folks wanted Wimpy's - toasted cheese and French fries.  

I have been impressed by the number of folks who come in and out of the House of Moses to hold babies and play with toddlers.  A group of Seventh Day Adventist ladies were here today to help clean the facilities.  A group of teens from Chicago came by to hold babies - they are part of a mentoring group who minister

 in Chicago.  Extended family members of children here are welcome to visit.

We were headed out to visit the Bill and Bette Bryant House this afternoon but BOB (big old bus) was In a head on accident - only driver involved and not his fault - he's fine but BOB is out of commission for awhile.  We will be ferried around by other vehicles so all is well.

Craft Market

With many kwatcha in our pockets and ideal gifts in our heads, we headed to the Dutch Reform Congregation Craft Market. The market had many stalls outside in the courtyard, as well as ones under a big pavilion. The cloths were spread out right next to eachother and if they had tents, those were practically on top of one another as well. If you couldn't find what you wanted in one stall, you didn't have to go far to see what you would.The vendors there were a lot less pushy than the market we went to last Sunday. However, there were a few that really, REALLY wanted you to look at all the things they had to offer. I think everyone got at least one animal that came in all types, sizes and material. There were cloth animals that looked like toys, as well as wooden and stone ones that were meant to just look pretty. I decided that after how many elephants we saw at Chobi, that would be my animal. I got a small wooden one from my sister and another that was a bit bigger for one of my friends. Many of the vendors had paintings that were absolutely spectacular. From the size of a notebook to a huge wall painting, they were done on recycled paper to canvas, in lots of bright colors. There were paintings of trees, of women with baskets and chetengues, of all sorts of animals, houses, landscapes and many other things. Another popular gift was wooden bowls that were painted with all sorts of patterns.
Our schedule was to do most of the shopping before lunch, eat from the food stalls that were there, and finish up before the bus came to take us back to the house. There were many decisions for food, from noodles and spring rolls, to tacos and nshima. I decided on the fried spring rolls, which were'nt bad at all but nothing like the ones we had at home. After lunch, once I was completely out of money, it was time to trade. I had brought four pairs of socks and I headed out with Jake to see what I could get with them. We were told by our cousins before we came to bring lots of socks and their advice was not unheard. I got the elephant for my friend for three pairs of socks, and a really cool woven bracelet for
one pair and a hairtye. With all of us feeling very succesful with our purchases and very grateful for the ability to buy them, we headed home to give some more love to kids we will be missing so so so much by the end of the week.

Friday

  After three nights of blissful relaxation and dreamy afternoons with no babies crying, it was finally time to go back to the House of Moses. We departed in the morning at about nine. I had slept on a bed that the men had brought in since there wasn't enough room anywhere else.
 We had gone to breakfast at eight, and since I had ordered something new every morning I decided to get the french toast because I hadn't eaten it yet. It was a quiet morning and I could tell what everyone was thinking: They didn't want to leave because it was so nice here.
 As we got on the bus, all the staff came out to greet us. We exchanged hugs and handshakes, and I knew that one day I would come back to Waterbury. Several people on our bus were wearing their Waterbury t-shirts that they had bought in the gift shop.

 I sat with Meghan on the way back; which was okay, but at times I wanted to punch her. She was everything Grandma wasn't. She played her music too loud, hummed her favorite songs, stole my belongings and hid them under her butt, and hit me when I told her to shut up and keep her hands to herself.

 On the rest stop, which was the same one as the way there, we took a stretch break and bought some sodas and snacks. We ate our lunch on the bus which was a cheese sandwich and a brown banana.
 Meghan and I, who did not want to eat our bananas, flung them at one another, which made them even more brown. There was a time when I poked her banana so hard it opened and a bruise showed through the skin.
 The rest of the way back was a bore. All we did was read and play games. When we pulled up at the House of Moses at a quarter past six, I was tired and hungry.
 I hugged all of ladies in the kitchen, and then ate some food. After eating such rich food at Waterbury, it was a relief to have chicken and rice and vegetables, a classic. I ate on the couch and talked some, but mostly listened.
 By nine, I was exhausted. I changed into my pyjamas and curled into bed and slept like a stone.

Chobe National Park, Botswana

We were up early today for an early start. Breakfast started at 6:00 as we needed to leave at 7:00 to make our safari reservation at Chobe.

We headed out in the bus to drive to the Kazungula crossing with Botswana.  We had to wait in a long line at the border to get our passports stamped on the way out of Zambia.  When we left the Immigration office we were met by several men carting baskets full of handmade items for us to purchase.  They swarmed about us trying to strike up conversations and make a connection so we would return and buy from them.

We walked down the concrete drive to meet our waiting water taxis to take us across.  Our boat captain explained that the opposite side of the power lines was the Zimbabwe side and we stayed well above the power lines when we crossed to Botswana. As we crossed the Zambezi, he also pointed out upstream where the Chobe river emptied into the Zambezi.  The peninsula (that looks like an island) that sticks out in center of the river belongs to Namibia.

 We were met by Jenson who drove us to Botswana Immigration where we again waited in line.  We met another family traveling together from New Jersey (the Patels) who ended up being with the same safari group as we were.

Once through immigration, we loaded up in the bus and Jenson drove us to the office of Kalahari Tours.  On our way, we got a history lesson on Botswana, and more specifically the Chobe area. Botswana became a British protectorate when Rhodes (who colonized Rhodesia) started eyeing Botswana.  Some British missionaries working in the country took the 3 chiefs who shared leadership over it to see Queen Elizabeth and ask her to protect Botswana from Rhodes. In 1965, Botswana held elections and became their own country out from under British rule.

The island where present day Namibia is at the Zambia/Botswana border once belonged to Germany. While Botswana was a protectorate, England traded the island for Zanzibar in Tanzania. The area now known as Namibia was known as South/North West Africa and when the Germans left, the South Africans swooped in and claimed it.  Eventually, Namibia became its own country and the South Africans had to let it go.  Since then, the Namibians have attempted to claimed Sidudu island off the coast of Botswana.  The Namibians wanted to build commercial farmland out of the island and the government of Botswana insisted that the land belong to Chobe and should be a protected island for the animals. Namibia wanted to fight over it, but Botswana took the matter to International Court in La   Hague.  Last year, in July, the Court sided with Botswana due to an 1835 land treaty that said the boundaries between countries are at the deepest point between them.  The main channel of the Zambezi is 10m while the middle of the Chobe is only 4m, so the country boarder  is on the Zambezi and the island between the Chobe and the Zambezi belongs to Botswana.

We arrived at the safari office and turned in just as a warthog crossed the street. We had a small breakfasty snack (fresh deep fried donuts and muffins/coffee and juice) before we set off in the boat trip. 

The boat captain explained, as we were traveling upriver to check in at the Chobe office, that there were several military bases all over the park working to protect the animals from poaching.

We went upstream on the Chobe and started seeing wildlife immediately. Vervet Monkeys, Chacma Baboons, African Fish Eagles, Nile Crocodiles. Cape Buffaloes, Hippopotamus, Great White Egrets, Water Monitor Lizards, Malachite Kingfishers, and African Elephants.  The beauty and majesty of the elephant bringing tears to my eyes.  Across and up the beach there was an entire family of elephants with super tiny babies walking in between the largest of the adults.  When they drank from the river water, the baby stood so close to the patriarch that you could not see the baby, it was completely underneath.

We took the fatter channel on the Namibian side of Sidudu Island back down to the safari office and got off for lunch. The buffet set before us had a lot of options but our table was most excited about the beets, pan fried potatoes and the bread.

After lunch we loaded into vehicles to head up for the land part of our excursion. There were 10 of us in each jeep. In our car were Donna up front, 1st row Mom, Tracy, Joyce, 2nd Thomas, me, Nancy, and back row Meghan. Vonnie, Helen. As we set off, it was a short drive to the entrance of the park. We pulled aside for our driver, OT, to go inside, we saw a Red Billed Hornbill with a beautiful curved beak and black and white striped feathers (like Zazu from The Lion King)

Once inside, we again started seeing animals fairly quickly. Ground Hornbills, Impalas (the McDonalds of the animal world providing fast food for the lions), Kudu, Banded Mongoose, Maribou Stork, Sable, Reticulated Giraffes, and more African Elephants than I would have ever believed we could see.  We would come around a bend and the elephants would be standing, walking or posing for our cameras.    They were not afraid of us (no hunting in the park makes them at ease with the what-must-be constant traffic of safari vehicles) and some came VERY close to our vehicle. 

We witnessed a bull following a female elephant around as she kept running a away from him. He was trumpeting in frustration at his inability to catch up with her.  When she started running at our vehicle, OT quickly started up the jeep and we headed off.

The ride was over all too soon and we were dropped off at the immigration office by our jeeps.  A long line, a wait for the water taxi, another long line on the Zambian side (this time being hounded by Zambian craft marketers) and we finally got in our bus and headed back to Waterbury.

The return ride felt shorter and we were all grateful to arrive safely back at our lodging.  We had about 45 mins to relax, change clothes, sit around the campfire and chat, etc before we sat for dinner @7:00. It was a farewell dinner to remember with an artfully presented scrumptious dinner and a fantastic chocolate cake with ice cream for dessert.

I will be slightly sad to be leaving this lovely oasis tomorrow, but I am anxious to love on babies again and serve God with active and loving hands and feet.

Victoria Falls

Wednesday June 25 Victoria Falls

Debby and I were up before dawn drinking instant latte outside our bungalow.  Birds were chirping, squawking, singing all around us.  The river had early morning fog/midst covering it.  Yes we are in paradise.  There are hippos in the river who usually come up in the yard at night.  We are not allowed to walk around at night because hippos are dangerous to humans and kill more humans than any other wild animals do!!

Speaking of food (hippos are vegetarians) we have delicious breakfast options at the Waterberry Lodge: French toast, omelets, English bk with eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, AND baked beans.  Cereals, yogurt fruit. Wonderful way to begin a day of sight seeing.

We boarded our 20 passenger van with 20 passengers - we have this process down pat.  We have a great driver, Tom, who works for Christian Alliance for Children in Zambia CACZ.  

Off to see Victoria Falls - you can see the mist rising from the falls for miles away.  The park is a rainforest environment compared to the rest of the countryside in this dry season.  As I followed others to view the falls, I was looking down and looked up to - well VF is a natural wonder of the world - words or even pictures can't describe the wonder of it!!

We were given a light weight and heavy raincoat and walked on to cross the pedestrian bridge.  

From then on it was rain and rainbows-shoes, socks,hair wet-purse and phone DRY under raincoats!!

The Victoria Falls bridge spans were joined in 1905.  Today it's used by cars trucks and as a bungee jumping station. 

The Vance girls hiked down to the boiling pot where the Zambezi River continues on its way to the Indian 

Our visit to the park ended with baboons playing along the path.  

Back to Waterberry (Waterberry is a tree that grows along the river) Lodge.  Rest time and then the Bush Dinner.  We met out in a field with a bonfire and the"table" set on the ground.  The sky was black with millions of stars-we all found the southern cross - but know none of the constellations in the Southern Hemisphere. 

Our food was prepared by the WB chef, Moses.  Dinner was eaten with our fingers.  Nshima is the staple at every meal. It's made from mealy meal - a corn based grain- boiled into a thick paste which is rolled into small flattened balls and dipped into various sauces.  Dishes included pumpkin leaves with ground nuts, aubergine and tomatoes, a bean dish, and beef stew which I think was for us westerners!! Our finger food seems easier to manage but all the dishes were delicious so licking my fingers seemed appropriate.

Drums, singing, and dancing followed with one of the staff dressed as a symbolic bush figure.

A lovely evening under the stars.